Believe it or not, our next pub stay was at yet another Blue Bell Inn in Glangrwyney (no this is not a typo and I really have no idea how to pronounce it). This pub was being operated by a group of young people hoping to improve the trade. The young man cleaning out the room was part of the group as well as doing the ‘hands on’ work. He told us that they had no funds to improve the structure so their plan was to improve the cleanliness and service as well as to do promotions such as children eating free.
We saw some great challenges in what they were doing as we were there on a Sunday and there was no one in the pub but staff at about 7 pm. We played a couple of games on the Pub Quiz Machine and had a glass of cider each before we went out for a walk leaving the place vacant. Hope that things improve for them but, even I know, the staff cannot exceed the number of punters.
We were told that in the past, this area as all about coal mining. All the smaller hills are actually slag heaps which 10 years ago would have been black. There is an active coal mine at Blaenavon which is now an interactive museum taking people down into the mine and is operated by the miners.
We took an exploratory run to try and find it and we witnessed a terrible motorcycle accident where a young woman missed her turn and ran into the stone wall of the train overpass. John went to help her while I tried to get to a telephone which I finally was able to get by flagging down a motorist. With reluctance, I headed back to the accident site where to my great relief the ambulance service had already arrived. I could hear the young lady's cries of pain but was relieved to see her move her legs. The assistance was very quick and we were told that the hospital was near by and her husband was with her. We both think she will be hurting for a while but miraculously(hopefully) she will be fine.
The next day after driving over hill and dale, all of which was filled with sheep, we found the mine. We were kitted up with a helmet, a light and a safety gear containing a gas mask before we went down in a cage to about 300 feet below the surface. Before we permitted into the cage, we had to hand over our contraband: watches, cameras, anything with a battery or which could cause a spark. This was mandatory for the miners as there are gases in the mine and this could readily ignite them causing an explosion. Our decent into the mine was a third of the speed that used to be used to take the miners down and it was quick enough.
Our guide was one of the miners whose first day underground was when he was 17 years old and he worked at the lowest level in a space only 2.5 feet high with ground water running constantly. It would run down his neck and out his boots. The only benefit to this job was that they were allowed off 1 hour before the rest so they only worked an 11 hour day.
In the mine shaft, we were shown where the work was completed and the machinery including cutters and conveyors which were actually used into the 1990s. Water is constantly running through pipes and gutters along the edges of the shaft; it is rusty with the iron which is also in the ground.
One of the most interesting areas was the stables for the pit ponies. In many respects, the ponies were better treated then the men but it was still no picnic. There were approximately 70 of them underground in this mine and they were brought down after their 4 birthday and worked 12 hours with their human partner. Once a year for 2 weeks they were bought to the surface for a holiday. Care had to be taken to protect their eyes if they were being brought up in the daylight. After a few of these holidays, they got smart and at the end of the 2 weeks they would lie down in the pasture making it really difficult to move them so they would be tipped into a cart to get them back underground. The miners had the daily task of removing the manure which ensured that they had great gardens.
The canaries were also an important part of operations as they react quicker to gases than humans do providing an early warning system. As an important part of the team, they were given great care and never harmed. Two of the canaries are named after Margaret (Thatcher) and Arthur (the Union Leader) who fought each other over the mines.
While there is great pride and camaraderie displayed in the museum, this was never an easy job but at one time it was brutal. Until reformations were made to the labour laws, children as young as 4 and 5 were underground for 12 hour shifts 6 days per week to open and close the doors between the shafts to permit the coal carts and ponies to pass by. They would sit in complete darkness which was demonstrated to us by shutting off our lights. You could not see your hand in front of your face the darkness was so complete. To add to this terror, the mine shafts were full of rats feeding off the remains of the ponies feed and the men’s sandwiches so the children would feel the rats scurrying about them. On the 7th day, they had to attend school.
Over time, the technologies and the labour conditions did improve but it was always a very difficult and dangerous job until the strikes of the 1980s ended much of the mining in the UK.
The museum had a number of displays besides this trip underground which were all run by the miners who used to work at the Big Pit Mine. All the museum staff where miners and their families and they spoke of their time in the pit with respect and camaraderie among the men.
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